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1962 Volvo P1800 (jensen)

1962 Volvo P1800 (Jensen)

$ 3,850

Make: Volvo
Model: Other
Condition: Used
Mileage: 91978
Engine: Custom Built
Location: 20737, Riverdale, Maryland
SellerID: mbjstl

Seller's Notes:

1962 Volvo P1800 (Jensen) I am selling my 1962 Volvo P1800 (Chassis #1265). I don’t really need to sell it, and on some level don’t want to sell it, but for practical reasons I really should sell it. I am going to provide, as best I can, a very detailed, complete and honest summary of the vehicle and its condition – good and bad – without hyping or overselling. Then I’ll see how the eBay market responds. Like many P1800s you will see advertised, the vehicle is a partial restoration. For this car, the major mechanicals essentially are all new and largely have been upgraded. The interior is partially complete; the body was redone, but badly. I believe that I am the 3rd owner and I bought the car with the plan of building an extremely fun, but not necessarily pretty, street sports car. That is essentially where it is. It is not really a rally car (I don’t race or rally), but if you wanted one, this is a good start. Much of the work on the car was performed by Mountjoy’s Autoshop in Hyattsville, Maryland. They specialize in classic British cars, but know their way around Weber carbs and did some custom fabrication, etc. The new mechanicals (engine, suspension, etc., detailed below) have under 5,000 miles on them. If you wanted to build a “new” car from a better shell, this car is basically complete. The price of just a few of the major parts alone (engine, intake system, shocks, springs and sway-bar) are more than the vehicle’s reserve price.I have a larger set of pictures and even some videos (from a dashboard camera) of the vehicle. Ebay doesn't like external URLs links, so you can contact me or you can just try this: s1367 dot photobucket dot com forw-slash user forw-slash mbjstl forw-slash library Engine, Intake and Exhaust A lot of the car’s selling price is based on the engine. The engine was custom built by Phil Singher in late 2007, and I guess has under 5,000 miles on it since then. The engine was fully blueprinted and includes: B20 block and "F" head cores; 92mm Mahle pistons w/ rings and wristpins; Meyle lifters; Steel / aluminum timing gear set; Cam thrust plate; Isky double-wound valve springs & retainers; Elring "cutting edge" head gasket; and a lightened flywheel, balanced to 1/10 gram. Headwork includes extensive porting, combustion chamber reshaping, hard valve seats, new guides, and larger exhaust valves. The car has a custom grind racing cam but the engine is perfectly tractable for everyday driving. The intake includes *rare* dual Weber 42 DCOE carburetors on a high-quality manifold w/ linkages. The carbs are in good shape and tuned (sorry, but I don’t recall the precise jetting specs). The carbs use horns/pipes with a foam ITG filter. On one particularly hot summer I had a vapor lock problem that was solved by installing a Weber “heat shield” between the carbs and the engine and putting heat-reflecting insulation around the fuel lines. A new (electric) fuel pump was installed last week. The car uses a cast-iron performance header from V-Performance, followed by a custom 2.25” exhaust and a single straight performance muffler. The exhaust has the typical exhaust bends and hangs below the rear axle. However, Phil Singher recommended an exhaust with a 2.5” pipe, as straight as possible and above the rear axle. So my current set-up is less than ideal and a different exhaust probably will get more out of the engine than the current set up. There is video of engine compartment while idling at the above link....Engine Performance I haven’t put the car on a dyno, but according the builder, the engine math indicates a potential 187 hp at the flywheel. My current exhaust set up probably limits the power output, so let’s use 170 hp as a very conservative estimate. Note that stock P1800s have around 100 hp at the flywheel. About 35 hp is lost through the transmission, so we might estimate that the car I am selling should have 135+ hp at the rear wheels, more than double the 65 hp (rear wheels) at the stock P1800. Again, I have posted links to videos (based on a windshield-mounted camera) showing the car in action... The car starts easily when it is started regularly. I regularly use the manual choke when it is cold out or when it has been sitting for a while. Starting has been much easier with the new fuel pump. Miscellaneous Engine Mechanicals and Electrical The radiator is new and the gas tank has been completely and professionally refurbished. I had installed a Crane electronic ignition system, upgraded the distributor, swapped the generator for an alternator and used a solid state regulator. I installed an upgraded fuse box and had a kill switch (from installed under the steering column. Old Volvos have notoriously strong ignition switch springs and weak keys, which leads to keys breaking off in the ignition. To start the car, insert the key and turn to "On" and then flick the toggle switch. In retrospect I would move the switch to a slightly more convenient position (your mechanic probably could do so easily). I never put the "kill switch" in the "kill" position (which keeps the car from starting) because I was told (??) it drains the battery. The car came with factory AC (FrigiKing). I kept the fan box beneath the dash for better interior circulation but took out the compressor out of the engine compartment. The compressor (along with many other parts) is included with the car. The original (?) AM radio is still in the dash, but does not work. The vehicle currently does not have any functioning stereo system. I had a 12v outlet installed on passenger side. Lights (highs and lows) work fine – both foot switch and stalk flasher – as do the horns (both city and highway) and the directionals. Aftermarket (bright) bulbs were installed. I do not believe that the fog lamps are functioning. The tachometer “works” but is not accurate. I was told that the electronic ignition system interferes with the tach, and so it reads high, and the higher it goes, the less accurate it is. With this engine I tend not to worry about it. The videos that I linked to show me pegging the tach at 7,000... but that really isn't the case. The speedo works, but it bounces around a little. The speedo reads 91,978 but it is NOT the originally. In any case the engine has fewer than 5,000. The water temp gauge works and there are no overheating problems whatsoever. The oil temp gauge does not appear to work. Fuel gauge and oil pressure gauge work, but the clock does not. The climate control system (air, defrost, temp) work fine, as do the blower fans. The hoses to the defrost vents have been re-routed so that car defrosts. The washer sprayer system works, but only one (driver side) wiper works. I was told that there is a bar that connects that driver wiper to the passenger wiper, and that bar is missing. Transmission and Rear Axle The car has a M41 transmission with Laycock electronic overdrive. It leaks a little from the area where the overdrive unit joins the transmission, and I would regularly have the transmission refilled with transmission oil. The OD works smoothly. I think that the overdrive switch is installed backwards – down is off and up is on – which I recall being different from the manual. I could be wrong about that, but it works nevertheless. Also, I was told that OD switch bypasses some malfunctioning unit in the transmission that makes it possible to engage in OD from lower gears – which should be avoided. Note that the vehicle comes with a second complete transmission, including gearbox and shifter and OD unit. I have no idea their condition - they came with the car when I purchased it. The gearbox seems firms. I think (not 100%) that the car's rear axle is standard for a vehicle with a M40, not M41. I get confused whether the gearing is "tall" or "short", but you go through gears really quickly and you get to high RPMs at highway speeds. At one point I considered having the rear axle ratio changed (mainly because of highway driving). In general, the engine is built for high RPMs and this is easily achieved with this gearing ratio. Suspension and Brakes The front end was of the car rebuilt – new tie rods, rod ends and ball joints. Polyurethane bushings are installed throughout the suspension. The cars has KONI shocks, an Addco sway bar (front only) and Sports Springs (V-Performance??). The car has new front brakes, rotors and a clutch hydraulics. The single-circuit brake system was replaced with a dual circuit system. The brakes have an adjustable brake proportioning valve. Drums brakes are in the rear (standard for the 1962 model). The car brakes fine. Interior The interior of the car is partly restored. One my great disappointments... when I first got the car the original dash pad was in good condition - no cracks. But one summer I let is sit out in the hot sun and the dash quickly deteriorated. Such a shame. Since then I have kept the vehicle under a car cover when not in use. New seats (black) were put together by Don at (so they are nicer than stock Jensen seats). I had a custom headliner put it, along with the rear window shelf and a rear seat. The rear seat sits firm but needs a few metal screws to really be secure. There currently is no back to the rear seat, and much of the other interior paneling is either absent or ill-fitted. There are a number of places that sell paneling kits for this car. I put in new carpet but did kind of a not so great job, so it might not look that pretty but at least it is not 50 years old.I had an aftermarket wood steering wheel put it. It is small (I wanted more leg room) so it takes a little more effort to maneuver the car at low speeds. Apparently for the earlier P1800s they don't make hub adapters, so I had one fabricated by Mountjoy's Automotive. The car will come with the original steering wheel. Minor notes: the passenger side window handle tends to fall off... Exterior Two or three years ago I had someone strip down the car, sand it, prime it and paint it. But I went cheap and it shows. The paint is chipping - some places very badly - mainly around the rear windows but it is clearly other places on the body as well. Bubbles are popping up here and there. The car has the typical issues with rust bubbles around the rocker panels. The undercarriage is in pretty decent shape (see photos at the photobucket url above...). Almost all the chrome is on the car, with one exception... the long strip along the passenger front fender. When the car was painted that piece was not reattached correctly and it buckled and broke off when the passenger door was opened. I still have the piece - it is just not on the car. The front tip of the chrome is broken off. There is dent on the driver side front fender chrome. The seals around the windows aren't great. I suspect that the rear window would leak a little if I didn't keep it under a car cover. The car has sporty aftermarket wheels (15"?) from IPD (SupraLite). The tires are in good shape. AddendumPlease contact me through eBay if you have questions, want additional information, new pictures, etc. I can try to help with arranging shipping.

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